May 28, 2003

Sona

Some cool flavors at Sona. A great combination of pureed cauliflower and escovitched fish. I’m normally not a fan of escovitched fish, even when I was in Jamaica, but the cauliflower toned down the sweetness of the sauce somehow and added some interest that is normally lacking.

Other winners included a European line-caught cod with red-wine shallots and morels, paired with a very jammy Syrah from Santa Barbara. I’m a huge sucker for morels. In this dish the cod played an almost purely textural role. It had very little flavor of its own and instead served as a backdrop for the morels, shallots and wine. Sautéed Liberty Farms duck with ramps and ramp foam was also very good.

Grapefruit/vanilla sorbet intermezzo was a wonderful transition. The desserts were enjoyable, but not amazing.

The service was attentive, but not overbearing. The only major downside was some Hollywood muckity muck talking at the top of his lungs for three hours. But I guess that’s just LA.

Update: Apparently the loud fellow was Matt Groening, creater of The Simpsons.

Posted by pmk at May 28, 2003 5:13 PM | TrackBack
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